Domaine Felix / Burgundy
2546
We couldn’t not take on Domaine Félix really, though namesakes aside this estate, imported since 2015 has provided us with an increasingly rare paradigm of tasty, affordable, authentic estate-raised Burgundy.
The family traces winemaking lineage back to the late 1600s in the region, though the estate’s current form took root in 1981 under the impish Hervé Félix. Holdings expanded from 11 to 31 hectares, covering various appellations of the Yonne department including Chablis and Petit Chablis, Irancy, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre (the estate choosing to label Bourgogne for simplicity), and Saint-Bris.
Under Hervé, viticulture was taken to culture raisonée, a term we wish would gain more traction – essentially organic practice though reserving the right to use non-certifiable chemicals only in an emergency situation to save the crop which is of course infrequent.
Hervé’s son Olivier joined the domaine around 2016; trained as an engineer it’s been pleasing to watch his growth from almost reluctant secondee to a passionate and committed vigneron, his changes becoming more apparent in the wines as Hervé steps back towards retirement. Wild ferments and a revision of oak practices (more stainless steel used in elevage) sees the wines looking tighter, fresher and more nuanced. Olivier’s partner Elodie has stepped into a management role, and Olivier also serves as mayor of the winery’s locale Saint-Bris – suffice to say the domaine is in safe and forward thinking hands.
