Lucy and Alysha are based in West Gippsland, looking after small parcels of land and sourcing fruit from around Victoria. Producing delicious and honest wines under their label ‘Allevare’, meaning ‘to nurture’, they pride themselves on working with the land and collaborating with growers in all regions with a focus on sustainability and innovation. An amalgam of Sicilian and local sensibilities, and some of the most joyful and inviting labels in the game.
Grown in Heathcote, Victoria. Low yields and no irrigation make for intense richness and flavour. Fruit was handpicked and destemmed into 1 tonne fermenters. Pump overs twice a day with a few rack and returns at the peak of ferment. Fruit was left on skins for 30 days before being pressed to French Hogsheads for 10 months. 25% new oak from Damy, France.
A plump and juicy Sangio here – cherries, figs, fig paste, cedar and fresh leather on the nose and palate. Decent concentration, fleshy and succulent with a plum jam note on the finish but bright enough to serve a purpose as an easy drinker.
Grown in the black sandy soils of the Bass River vineyard, South Gippsland. As always, the aim is for texture and interest, rather than archetypal new world Sauvignon. Barrel fermented, whole bunch pressed, aged in old puncheon for nine months on full lees.
Aromatically more evocative of Chardonnay or Semillon, though nettle and blackcurrant point to the variety. The acid line carries amazing energy through the palate, more Bordelaise than Sancerre. Nettles, green fruits and herbs, grapefruit, and a lanolin element on the finish gives some texture. A serious expression, no question a lovely food wine.
Grown by Chalmers, one of their newest Northern Italian varietals. First mentioned in the late fifteenth century, Teroldego has long called Trentino (north-east Italy) home.
This was handpicked, and destemmed into 1 tonne fermenters. Mainly rack and returns once a day with light pump overs towards the end of ferment. Very limited amount made with one French puncheon and one barrel, in oak for 10 months before bottling.
A fresh, light to medium bodied fruit driven style here. Aromatics of blackberry fruit and leaves, cranberry and a thread of smoked charcuterie. Fresh blackberries, violets and forest berries run though the palate, though what defines this is its lacy, pinpoint tannins. Bright with enough in the structure and savoury balance to nudge up complexity, an accessible and tasty introduction to this grape.
Grown by Denton Vineyard on an isolated hill on the North side of the Yarra River, The Hill is a granite ‘plug’ from the Denovian age, sitting above the surrounding softer sandstones and siltstones from the valley. P58 clone Chardonnay. Whole bunch pressed then transferred to French oak for barrel fermentation with 25% new Chassin oak. Partial malolactic fermentation. Left on full lees for 10 months, racked, settled then bottled.
Lemon oil and wet stones on the nose, oak present but well integrated. Those familiar with the 2022 will find this fuller and fleshier in the mouth; white peaches, nougat, lemon rind and pith, finishing with roasted nuts. Keeps a taut acid spine, will be a style with broad appeal.
Dry-grown on red ferrosol soils with a northerly aspect. Whole bunch pressed to help oxidise the aromatics and promote more savoriness. Barrel fermented and left on lees for 9 months before racking in seasoned oak. Full malolactic for stability but no lees stirring. One hit of sulphur post malo.
The makers confirm this as a true expression of site – intense, driving and mouth-watering. Impressions are grilled peaches, digestif and ginger biscuits, citrus pith, almond meal, a small lactic element and a tightly wound array of varietal Chardonnay stone and citrus fruits. Its flavour density suggests this will be particularly handsome with a short to medium spell in the cellar.
A while between Pinot releases for this label – MV6 clone next door to the Chardonnay, further down the slope which experiences cooler breezes. Fully destemmed, pigeaged twice daily, with 2 ½ weeks on skins. Aged nine months in old puncheons, sulphured once post malo.
Super bright and expressive, leaps out of the glass. Lofi, raw vibes, but as per all Allevare wines, clean and correct. Lots going on – plums, violets/potpourri, raspberries, just a little earth/truffle. Light bodied but plenty happening, throws the full gamut of forest berries balancing brightness with the savoury. Great length with its architecture of lively acid and fine tannins, finishing with a wild blackberry note.
Grown on the Warner vineyard (once a key supplier to Giaconda), and soon to be a collector’s item as following vintage 2022 all the Roussanne was grafted over to Gamay. A shame, given the character of this wine. Oak fermented and matured for six months, it somehow manages to be racy and textural; yellow fruits and peach skin over saline and honeyed elements. Refreshing without being bracing, it makes a strong case to see more of this variety vinified without blending.
Artwork by Bridgette McNab, an old Sicilian love story about Teste di Moro. The story of a Moorish soldier falling in love with a woman from Palermo, they were madly in love until she learned that he had another family back home. She cut off his head in a fit of rage, planted her basil in it and left it on her balcony for the town to see. She had the most fertile basil in all of Palermo and the rest of the town soon started to sculpt ceramic heads in the hope that their basil would be just as good.
“Undoubtedly, there’s that textural smell of wine getting hot in the wood. Nutty with apricot kernels, pastry, ripe lemons, beeswax element. Texture is smooth, lightly creamy, with sprinkle of salt on ripe fruit and then savoury finish, just lightly powdery and with judicious spice. Very appetising.” 92 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, Winefront
A one-off wine for Allevare, embracing the opportunity to make a Beechworth Shiraz from one of Beechworth’s oldest vineyards, the Warner Vineyard a one-time key supplier to Giaconda no less. Fruit was handpicked and made by Allevare in the Little Frances winery. 11% whole bunch, left on skins for 2 weeks and pressed to large format French oak, with 20% new.
“What a strong varietal opening. Meaty and smoky, bitter herbs, wet earth, mossy wood, vegetal note of roasted beets, granitic rock or almost warm asphalt type of note. This Shiraz has a dark side, but it’s lifted by fresh pepper spice and a shade of fresh violet. Lots of roast in flavours, ground coffee and dark amaro finish. Yum!” 93 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, Winefront
