Pure Pure Pouilly-Fuissé from a hidden jewel of Burgundy
Vergisson is a small but dramatic village, nestled in the hills some 400 meters high in the Mâcon. A sweeping bowl of several kilometres across, it is punctuated by two striking rocky outcrops, with vines clinging to the steep hills underneath. It is here that Gilles Morat and wife Joëlle farm their six hectares of Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint Véran vines. Viticulture is organic with a focus on hands on, exceptional vineyard management, raising pure and pristine Chardonnay from this drop dead gorgeous, hidden nook of Burgundy.
Gilles Morat Saint Véran 2017
Grown on south facing slopes, locally referred to as La Côte Rôtie (confusing hey?!) Soil here is shallow limestone, with vines close planted at 8,700 per hectare. Earliest plantings date back to 1959, with the youngest vines planted 1983. Fermented and raised in stainless only.
Aromatics of citrus pith, flint and almonds. A clear cut style, both in mouthfeel and fruit delivery. A straight line of citrus and peach fruit, it’s a wine with energy, nutty complexity, and a gentle mineral architecture on the finish of flint and stone.
Gilles Morat Terres de Menhir 2017
From several parcels of minimum 25 year old vines, with most coming from a locality known as En Buland. 40% of the juice is barrel fermented and aged for 12 months in well seasoned oak, with the remaining 60% raised in stainless.
A pure nose of juicy lemon and grapefruit, with spring flowers and a slight leesy cashew note. A broader mouthfeel, texturally evocative of Mâcon, only far more taut and toned. Green apple, peach and citrus flavours are plentiful, with the mineral component gentle and in pleasing balance. Intense yet accessible.
Gilles Morat Bélemnites 2017
From several parcels with similar geological characteristics, namely clay soils with fossilized Bélemnites Rostres shells (a long extinct ancestor of squid from the Jurassic period). Plantings date 1956 – 1980. Fermentation is in 220L barrels (roughly 10% new), followed by 11 months of barrel ageing with bâtonnage. The wine is allowed to progress through malolactic fermentation.
Density and concentration steps up here, with a densely packed nose of citrus, apricot/stonefruit, roasted nuts and green tea. The palate delivers significant complexity, with apricot, nectarine, citrus and fennel, with a long and lively finish driven by buzzing acid.
Gilles Morat Climat Sur la Roche 2017
From vines 350 – 400m above sea level, with plantings between 1967 and 1978, from the top of the southeast facing slope of the Roche de Vergisson. Raising is as per Bélemnites – barrel fermented followed by 11 months in oak (10% approx. new) with bâtonnage every 1-2 weeks, and full malo.
Intense, long, and of amazing shape. Aromatics and palate are an exercise of richness meets precision, delivering smoke, apples, citrus and mineral, with amazing length and mouthfeel. Texturally invigorating and vivacious, a pinpoint and pristine expression of the Chardonnay grape.